Peranakan

Sorry for the long hiatus from blogging. Didn't have much time and also the internet connection wasn't very good.

Anyway, I went to the new Peranakan Museum here in Singapore on May 4. It was their first week so I got a discounted entry ticket price of S$2. There were also many events going on that day so I enjoyed my trip very much.

This is not their dining table... it's their dessert table...

Peranakan, or better known as Baba Nyonya (Singapore spells it as Nonya), are descendents of early Chinese immigrants in South East Asia, in particular the Nusantara region. Due to their long history they have adopted local ways, especially food, clothing and language. My only recollection of Baba Nyonya culture was watching this show on RTM that had two Chinese looking middle-aged ladies (actually I think are guys) in traditional clothes (which I now know to be Baju Panjang) talking in Malay.

Baju Panjang worn by Nyonyas, picture from Kementrian Kebudayaan, Kesenian dan Warisan Pulau Pinang.

It is interesting to note that the Peranakan have their own special brand of Malay, which they call Baba Patois (pronounced as Patua... coz French word mah). I learnt some simple Baba Malay words during one of the activities they held. Most of the time the words they use are simply pronounced slightly different, such as Keday (pronounced as "Kedae"/"Kedé") for shop (Kedai in Malay). Other times they include Hokkien words, like Kamsiah for thank you, instead of the usual "Terima Kasih" in Malay.

You probably can't see this letter clearly, but I'll just transcribe the first line: "Dear Chin Tuan, Lu punia surat pada 10 hari bulan ini gua suda trima."

Their costumes, such as Baju Kebaya, are of course one of the main attractions. One thing about Nyonya clothes though... they seem to be rather tight-fitting... you've gotta have a slim waist to look beautiful wearing them. Malaysia has been promoting the wear of Baju Kebaya, Kain Songket, Batik etc. and I hope to see more people wearing them. Here are some photos I took during their fashion show event:

Nyonya cuisine, many of which I have yet to taste, is a potpourri of innovation and fusion, a wonderful blend of Chinese food with local ingredients. The amazing Laksa for example, is such a creation. But I was more surprised at this dish called Ayam Buah Keluak. The speaker in front mentioned something about having to bury the buah keluak underground for a few days, soak it in water for 3 days and peeling it before it is cooked with chicken and other spices. My god! Makes you wonder how they even knew it was edible. The explanation he gave was that the buah keluak was buried under volcanic ash (lots of volcanic activity in Indonesia) in the past etc. Possible explanation, but still, the process to prepare just this one meal is rather tedious.

Ayam Buah Keluak dish, picture taken from umami

It's a pity the original traditional Peranakan culture is disappearing. But I'm glad there are still people out there striving to preserve it. It's also a pity that they are not recognised as "Bumiputera" in Malaysia as their ancestors have been around in Malaysia longer than many Malays have. They way they had assimilated into Malaysia and the wonderful contributions they have made to Malaysian culture, these we should all cherish and eagerly promote.

On a side note, some of my friends would know that I sometimes grumble about the Chinese from China. It's not that I hate them; it's more of an assimilation issue. When I read about the how the Peranakan Chinese were wary of the new wave of Chinese immigrants, I see a striking similarity. There is always resistance to change, but I'm afraid the change will come. I'm trying not to describe it as good or bad though. Culture is fluid, it changes with time. With more PRC Chinese coming to Singapore it will inevitably cause some changes in society. My main worry is simply that something unique to this region might change in the pace of globalisation; just as how the Peranakan culture has been sidelined.

To learn more about the Peranakan, you can go to: The Peranakan Association Singapore and the The Main Wayang Company.